‘Every Chef Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.

Arthur Miller
Arthur Miller

Elara Vance is a tech enthusiast and digital strategist with a passion for uncovering emerging trends and sharing practical advice for modern audiences.